Instructions: Standard warnings about parasites, etc. but weve been over all that discussion so Ill skip all that and post just the recipes. Also you will note that the chile content of these recipes is minimal or even noted as

"optional"!!??? (The _Post_ also spells the word for the fruit "chili;" its getting so the concept of "literate journalist" is almost a contradiction in terms...) Well, I reckon all of us know what needs to be added in each case-or we can do some trial and error adjusting. See recipes "SAIGONNAIS SCALLOP SEVICHE", "OLD ANGLERS INN SANTA FE SHRIMP SEVICHE", "ROOF TERRACE RESTAURANT CARIBBEAN SEAFOOD ESCABECHE", "MUSSEL SEVICHE", and "LOBSTER SEVICHE".

SAIGONNAIS SCALLOP SEVICHE:
This recipe is attributed to Chef-owner Tin Quan of the Saigonnais restaurant in Washingtons Adams-Morgan multi-ethnic enclave. (A friend of mine with mild dyslexia used to call it

"Madams-Organ" ;-)) 6 to 8 servings.

Place scallops in a non-corrosive bowl and marinate in lemon juice for 1/2 hour. Drain scallops in a strainer over a bowl in the refrigerator for 2 hrs. Dry completely with paper towels.

Heat oil in a non-stick skillet, add shallots and saute until browned.

Blend fish sauce with sugar until sugar completely dissolves. Pour over scallops and add rau ram, basil, ginger, peanuts, chili paste and fried shallots. Mix well and refrigerate until ready to serve.

Heat oil in a saucepan, add prawn crackers, one or two at a time, and fry until puffed, about 10 sec. Line a serving dish with lettuce leaves and pour scallops over the top. Arrange fried prawn crackers around edges.

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