Instructions: THIS CLASSIC salmon dish is prepared with unskinned salmon fillets. Cooked in a skillet on the skin side only - first uncovered, then covered - they cook all the way through, with the flesh remaining slightly rare. The fat that melts out of the salmon in the cooking process is discarded from the skillet (four fillets will render about 2 tablespoons of fat) and a little butter and vinegar are added. This flavorful blend is poured over the fillets, and they are served with a garnish of croutons, lemon flesh, capers, and chives.

1. Heat the oil until it is hot but not smoking in a nonstick skillet. Add the croutons, and cook them for about 2 minutes, stirring them occasionally until they are nicely browned on all sides. Transfer the croutons to a bowl, and set them aside.

2. Sprinkle the fish steaks on both sides with freshly ground salt and pepper, and place them skin side down in the hot skillet you used to saute the croutons. No additional fat is required. Cook the fish, uncovered for 3 minutes over medium to high heat, then cover, and cook it another 2 minutes. Place the steaks skin side up on a warm platter, and sprinkle them with the croutons, lemon flesh pieces, capers and chives.

3. Discard any fat that has accumulated in the skillet. Add butter to the skillet, and cook it over medium heat until it is lightly browned. Add the vinegar, shake the pan to mix it in, then pour the mixture over the fish steaks on the platter. Serve immediately.

Serves

4.

VARIATION: Substitute spray oil to pan-toast the croutons. Reduce salmon to 4-ounces portions. Reduce butter by one-third. (190 cals, 6.5g fat, 30%) -

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