Instructions: Place the verjus and the chopped shallots in an 8- to 10-inch frying pan over high heat. Add the salmon steaks. Cover and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat and simmer until the fish is no longer translucent in the center, 4 to 5 minutes.

Lift the fish onto 2 dinner plates and keep warm. Strain the juices and return to the pan. Boil juices over high heat until they have been reduced to 1/3 cup, 5 to 7 minutes, then whisk in the butter. Pour over the fish.

This recipe yields 2 servings.

Comments: This happy by-product of winemaking has been popular in Europe for centuries. When growers thin their grapes (to concentrate the flavor of the remaining grapes), the thinnings are pressed to make verjus (pronounced ver-joo). Now two California producers are bringing verjus to the kitchens of Western chefs and home cooks.

The product from Fusion Foods, called Napa Valley Verjus, is the most widely available. If a specialty foods store in your area doesnt carry it, order by mail; call (707) 963-0206. A 750-ml. bottle costs $9.95, a 375-ml. bottle $6.95, plus shipping. Navarro Vineyards sells verjus by mail only - a 750-ml. bottle costs $7.50, a 375-ml. bottle $4.75, plus shipping; call (800) 537-9463. Other wineries occasionally sell verjus at their tasting rooms.

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