Instructions: Delicious as it is, the flavor of a classic tartare tends to overpower most fish. Sometimes you might want this effect (if your guests are not too adventurous), but if you prefer to taste salmon, this recipe makes an interesting departure from the original.

Tomatillo and mustard seed are the focus flavors here, with the other ingredients forming a foundation for them. Tart, cleansing lemon juice, parsley, and tomatillos are contrasted by the saltiness of the capers and mustard. When flavors are tart or sour, salt is essential to bring out the taste. Red onion is the only ingredient that excites the nose, and this helps us to taste all the other flavors. When you chew the mustard seeds, they pop, exploding with quick, short bursts of flavor. This textural contrast is a lot of fun.

Remove and discard the paperlike covering from the tomatillos and finely chop. You should have 1/4 to 1/2 cup. Place in a mixing bowl.

Chop the capers with the parsley and add to the tomatillos. Add the mustard seed, grainy mustard, minced onion, lemon juice, and oil and combine well.

(Can be prepared to this point up to 6 hours in advance and refrigerated.)

Just prior to serving, add the salmon to the mixture in the bowl and, using a fork, mash together well. Mound on plates.

Decorate each mound with a slice of red onion and a wedge of lemon. Serve immediately with warm toast.

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