Instructions: Seafood Alternatives: swordfish, shark, salmon In a large skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the garlic halves, cut-side down, and saute for 1 minute; remove. Add the spinach and saute until just wilted. Season lightly with pepper. Turn off the heat, leaving the spinach in the skillet.

Rinse the fish and pat dry with paper towels. Preheat a medium-sized, very heavy skillet, such as a cast-iron, over high heat. When the skillet is hot enough that water droplets dance on its surface, add enough salt to form a thin layer across the bottom (about 1 1/2 tablespoons for a medium skillet). Heat the salt for one minute then add the fish. If using kosher or coarse sea salt, cook for 3 minutes on one side; with table salt, cook for 2 minutes.

Turn the fish onto a still-salted area of skillet, adding a little more salt if necessary. Continue cooking the tuna until done to taste, 1 to 2 minutes for medium-rare, 3 to 4 minutes for medium-well.

Remove the tuna steaks from the skillet and scrape off the patches of scorched salt. Divide the spinach between individual plates and lay the tuna over the spinach. Sprinkle with the feta cheese, lemon zest and freshly ground pepper to taste. Serve immediately.

This recipe yields 2 servings.

Comments: Heres an earthy combination for the true salt-lover. It reinterprets with tuna a classic recipe for frying steak in salt. Most types of salt will do the job, but kosher salt works best: it is coarse enough to flick easily from the cooked fish yet flaky enough to blend with the finished dish. Be sure to fry over high heat or the fish will stick to the skillet. Serve this dish with lemony rice and a small bowl of briny black olives.

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