Instructions: Generously season beef ribs on both sides with salt and pepper.

Set up grill for indirect grilling. On a charcoal grill, light the coals and rake them into 2 piles at opposite sides of the grill. Place an aluminum foil drip pan in the center. Toss half the wood chips on the coals.

On a gas grill, light burner on 1 side. Place drip pan on other side. Place all the wood chips in a smoker box or smoker pouch. (To make the latter, tightly wrap chips in aluminum foil and poke holes in the top with a pencil to allow smoke to escape.) Place smoker pouch directly over one of the burners under the grate and run grill on high until you see lots of smoke, then reduce heat to medium-low.

Immediately place ribs on the grate, meat-side up, over the drip pan away from the heat. Cover grill and adjust vents to obtain a temperature of about 275 degrees. (If using a smoker, follow manufacturers instructions.)

Indirect grill the ribs until dark golden brown (almost black), very crisp on the outside and very tender, 5 hours. (If using charcoal grill, replenish coals every hour, adding remaining wood chips after the first hour.)

Serve with your favorite barbecue sauce on the side.

This recipe yields 3 to 4 servings.

Comments: Pit master Mike Mills is way too wily to share his recipe for baby back ribs. (And even if he did, I wouldnt believe half of what he told me.) But he did outline the basic procedure for making Blue Smokes meaty beef ribs. By the way, if youve never had a barbecued beef rib, youre about to have a life-changing experience.

NOTES : Steven Raichlen is the author of "The Barbecue Bible" and "How to Grill" (Workman Publishing)

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