Instructions: In a bowl, mix flour, cornmeal, sugar, baking powder, and salt. In another bowl, beat eggs to blend with buttermilk and 1/4 cup butter. Pour liquids into flour mixture and stir just until evenly moistened.

Scrape batter into a buttered 8-inch square pan and spread smooth.

Bake in a 400 degree oven until bread springs back when lightly pressed in the center and begins to pull from pan sides, about 25 minutes (20 minutes in a convection oven).

Cut bread into squares. Lift from pan with a slender spatula. Serve hot or cool.

This recipe yields 9 servings.

Comments: With the zeal of politicians, some people insist that cornbread should be dense and straightforward, with a modicum of sweetness. Others find virtue in the tenderness and rich browning that a little more sugar gives the bread. Once youve cast your vote, savory or sweet is but a steppingstone to further adventures with this simple stir-and-bake quick bread. Vary the forms of cornmeal, from stone-ground to polenta, for a surprising range of flavors and textures. Then use herbs, spices, chilies, and cheeses to add even more personality.

Note: At high altitudes, cornbreads with additions that increase the moisture content, such as the "double red" and basil-parmesan recipes below, may take 15 to 20 minutes longer to bake.

For bread that is sweeter and more tender, use the largest measure of sugar.

n Vary-the-Corn Bread: Follow directions for Savory or Sweet Cornbread (above), but instead of yellow cornmeal, use 1 cup polenta, dehydrated masa flour (corn tortilla flour), or stone-ground cornmeal (see following).

Purchase stone-ground cornmeal, which includes the germ (for nuttier flavor), at health food stores, or order from Giustos Specialty Foods, (650) 873-6566; a 2-pound bag costs $1.44 plus shipping.

n Double Red Cornbread: Follow directions for Savory or Sweet Cornbread (above), adding 1 tablespoon hot or sweet Hungarian paprika or regular paprika to flour mixture. To egg mixture, add 3/4 cup chopped canned roasted red peppers. Increase baking time to 30 minutes (25 minutes in a convection oven).

n Basil-Parmesan Cornbread: Follow directions for Savory or Sweet Cornbread (above). To egg mixture, add 1 can (8 1/2 ounces) cream-style corn, 1/4 cup chopped fresh basil, and 1/2 cup grated parmesan cheese. Increase baking time to 30 minutes (25 minutes in a convection oven).

n Curry Cornbread: Follow directions for Savory or Sweet Cornbread (above), adding 1 1/2 tablespoons curry powder to flour mixture.

n Southwest Cornbread: Follow directions for Savory or Sweet Cornbread (above). To egg mixture, add 1 can (4 ounces) chopped green chilies and 3/4 cup (3 oounces) coarsely shredded jack cheese. Combine 1 tablespoon each sugar and chili powder; sprinkle over batter in pan.

n Habanero Surprise Muffins: Follow directions for Savory or Sweet Cornbread (above), completing step 1. Spoon half the batter equally into 12 buttered 2 1/2-inch muffin cups. Top each portion with 2 teaspoons habanero or jalapeno jelly (1/2 cup total). Fill cups equally with remaining batter. Bake in a 400 degree oven until muffins spring back when lightly pressed in center and are lightly browned, 20 to 25 minutes.

Makes 12.

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