Instructions: Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/gas 4. Put the pieces of pollack in a gratin dish with 300ml of the milk and a knob of butter and bake for 15 minutes.

Turn the fish into a deeper baking dish, flaking it gently and extracting any bones, but keeping it in largish bits.

Reserve the cooking liquid. Boil the potatoes, and mash thoroughly. While the pollack is cooking, gently heat the oil in a saucepan and cook the squid until barely translucent. Add the leeks and cook for a further 203 minutes, then add the wine or vermouth. Bring to simmering point, cover and simmer gently for 10-15 minutes. Throw in a generous amount of chopped dill and take the pan off the heat. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the squid and leeks to the dish with the pollack, reserving the liquid.

Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the flour and cook, stirring for 1 minute. Add the bayleaf and a good pinch of nutmeg, and gradually stir in the liquid from the pollack to make a bechamel sauce. Remove from the heat and stir in the wine and dill from the squid mixture. Add more milk if you like a heavily sauced pie, but keep the mixture quite thick. Taste and adjust the seasoning, then pour the sauce over the fish.

Prepare the scallops, slicing the white parts into two or three discs, depending on their thickness, and leaving the corals whole unless they are really huge. The secret of this pie is to add the scallops raw to the cooked fish at this point.

Top the pie with mashed potato and cook in the oven for 15-20 minutes, until browned and bubbling on top. The scallops will be just cooked, and exuding their flavour, without having set firmly or breaking up.

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