Instructions: If using the dried rice noodles, pour enough warm water over them in a medium bowl to cover completely. Let them soak until softened, about 30 minutes. Drain completely. If using the fresh rice noodles, run them under warm water while separating the strands. Drain completely.

For the Seafood and Marinade: Separate the squid tentacles from the bodies. Leave the tentacles whole. Cut the bodies open along one side so they lie flat on the cutting board and lightly score the inner side in a small crisscross pattern. Cut the scored bodies into 1 1/2- by 2-inch pieces.

Marinate the seafood: In a bowl, combine the squid, shrimp, scallops, cornstarch, salt and white pepper; stir until evenly coated. Let stand for 10 minutes.

For the Seasonings: Stir the oyster-flavored sauce, fish sauce, soy sauce, chili garlic sauce and sugar together in a bowl.

For the Dish: Bring a 2-quart saucepan of water to a boil. Slide the seafood into the boiling water; cook until the seafood are opaque on the surface, about 2 minutes. Remove the seafood from the water and drain.

Heat a wok over high heat until hot. Add 1 tablespoon of the oil, swirling to coat the sides. Add the soaked or fresh rice noodles and stir-fry until the noodles are lightly browned along the edges, about 2 minutes. Scoop the noodles onto a plate and set aside.

Add the remaining tablespoon of oil to wok; swirl to coat the sides. Add the garlic, ginger, onion and red jalapeno pepper; cook, stirring, until fragrant and the onion is tender, about 1 1/2 minutes. Slide the noodles into the wok, scatter the bean sprouts and seafood over them and pour in the seasonings. Toss until the mixture is heated through and the seafood is coated evenly with the seasonings, about 2 1/2 to 3 minutes. Sprinkle with the sesame seeds, scoop the noodles onto a warm serving plate and serve.

This recipe yields 4 servings.

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