Instructions: Scrub the shellfish (and debeard the mussels) throwing out those that refuse to close.

Put them in a pan with a splash water (enough to create steam) cover and put on a high heat until they open.

Shell the meat from about half of them.

Strain about 3 tbsp of the juices into a large bowl and add the shelled and unshelled molluscs.

Bring the wine bay leaves and about 1 litre of water to the boil drop in the octopus and simmer for 45 minutes.

Drain peel off any loose skin cut into chunks and add to the bowl.

Add all the remaining ingredients and plenty of olive oil so that everything is truly dripping in dressing.

Leave refrigerated overnight turning to recoat everything as and when you remember.

Serve with the freshly baked dough balls or good bread.

To make the dough balls heat the oven on its highest setting.

Melt the butter add the crushed garlic and leave to infuse.

Follow the pizzabase packet instructions. After the dough has doubled in volume knead again briefly divide into small balls and dust with semolina flour.

Place on an oiled heavy baking sheet and leave in a warm place to puff up.

Score the tops across with a knife brush with the melted garlic butter and scatter with a little sea salt.

Bake until puffed up and light brown.

Seafood salad is one of the best things you can do with a handful of molluscs. I have put octopus in as well its a textural thing although its not for anyone who squirms at the sight of tentacles and suckers. The dough balls came about because I had a chunk of dough left over from my pizzas. Use the recipe for fresh dough (qv garlic mussel pizza) or follow the one here using packet mix. A few skinboiled peeled and sliced waxy Jersey Royals are good tossed in with it too.

Serves 6 as a first course

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