Instructions: Toast the fennel and coriander seeds in a heavy skillet over medium-high heat until they are fragrant, stirring often, about 2 minutes. Cool. Use a heavy-bottom skillet on a hard surface to crush the seeds. Combine the seeds with the salt and pepper on a small plate. Dividing the spices equally, press them onto the tuna on all sides to make a firm thin crust. (The recipe can be made ahead to this point and refrigerated for several hours.)

To make the Soybean Pancakes: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees and put the rack in the center position. Blanch the hulled soybeans in boiling salted water until the beans are tender, about 4 to 5 minutes. Drain them in a colander. Reserving 1/3 cup of the soybeans for Basil, Olive and Soybean Garnish, grind the remaining soybeans, egg, egg yolk, cream, flour, 1/4 teaspoon salt and pepper to taste in a food processor until almost smooth.

Heat 1 1/2 tablespoons of butter in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. When hot, drop 1 1/2 tablespoons of batter on the skillet for each pancake; use the back of a teaspoon to spread each into a 2-inch circle if the batter is a little thick. Cook until the pancake is set and lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Transfer the cooked pancakes to a baking sheet, browned-side down, in a single layer. Adding more butter as necessary, cook the remaining pancakes and transfer to the baking sheet.

Bake the pancakes only until they are just barely set on top, about 1 minute. (The recipe can be made ahead to this point and held several hours at room temperature.) To serve, melt 1 tablespoon of butter in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. When the butter is hot, quickly brown the other side of the pancakes, about 30 seconds. Serve them hot.

To make the Basil-/Olive-Soybean Garnish: Toss together the olives, basil, soybeans, oil, lemon juice and salt and pepper to taste in a small bowl. Taste and adjust the seasoning. (This recipe can be made ahead to this point and kept a few hours at room temperature.)

To cook the tuna: When you are ready to serve, heat the oil in a small heavy skillet over medium-high heat until the oil is smoking. Sear the tuna about 1 minute on each side; the tuna will be barely rare and barely warm in the center. Alternatively, cook the fish to your taste, remembering that tuna cooked through tends to be dry and tasteless.

To serve the tuna, cut it into 1/4-inch thick slices. Arrange 2 Soybean Pancakes on each plate and top with tuna slices, then with the Basil, Olive and Soybean Garnish, dividing all evenly.

This recipe yields 6 first-course servings.

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