Instructions: WHAT IS SEITAN? It is wheat gluten or "wheat meat." It has the texture and heartiness of meat and is easy to use as a alternative to meat.

HOW IS IT MADE? Whole-wheat flour is made into a very basic dough by adding water, then the starch is removed during a series of rinses in fresh water until just the gluten or seitan remains.

COOKING WITH SEITAN: The texture is very similar to tender steak that works very well in composit dishes including stroganoff, stir-fries, soups, or stews. Large pieces of seitan can be sliced or diced easily, or even ground with a few pulses of a food processor.

HOW TO BUY IT: Seitan can be found in the refrigerated or frozen section of most health food stores. It is usually packaged in 8-ounce containers, and the seitan pieces, usually three or four to a container, are marinated in soy sauce (tamari soy) to add flavor. It makes an instant "gravy" when a little thickener such as arrowroot or cornstarch is added. When packaged in this manner, seitan is fully prepared and only needs a little heating up.

A 4-ounce serving of seitan contains from 1 to 2.5 grams of fat, and from 15

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