Instructions: Rinse the fish well under cold running water. If you want boneless fish, remove the pin bones with needle-nose pliers or tweezers.

Combine the sugar and salt in a small bowl and stir to blend. Line a rimmed baking sheet with plastic wrap or waxed paper. Sprinkle a few tablespoons of the brine on the baking sheet and set the salmon skin-side down on the brine. Rub the remaining brine over the top of the salmon, wrap and let the fish sit in a cool spot for 2 hours or refrigerate for up to 4 hours; turn the fish over halfway through. (Alternatively, you can combine the brine and salmon in a large resealable plastic bag, press out the air and seal. Shake the bag until the fish is evenly coated with brine.)

Rinse off the brine under cold running water, rubbing the fish well, then pat dry. (After rinsing off the brine, the fish can be covered and refrigerated for another day before cooking.)

To cook the fish, preheat an outdoor grill. Soak about 1 cup of hardwood smoke chips in a bowl of cold water for 20 to 30 minutes. Rub both sides of the salmon lightly with oil. Sprinkle an optional seasoning on top, if desired.

When the coals are hot, scatter them in a solid, even layer. Drain the smoking chips well and sprinkle them over the coals. Brush the grill rack with oil and lay the fish skin-side down in the center of the grill.

Cover and cook, without turning, 15 to 25 minutes (cooking time will vary depending on the heat of the coals and thickness of the fish). The flesh will separate into moist flakes when prodded with the tip of a small knife and will look shiny and barely opaque.

Take the fish from the grill and serve hot or let cool and serve tepid. To store, let cool, then wrap well and refrigerate. Serve with salsa alongside.

This recipe yields 6 servings.

Comments: A refreshing salsa would be ideal alongside this flavorful salmon. Try the Peppery Mango Mint Salsa or the Cucumber and Fennel Salsa with this recipe. Not only are their colors and textures inviting, but the natural sweetness of these salsas is an ideal foil for the light saltiness of the salmon.

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