Instructions: Dissolve the yeast in the milk and allow to stand until tiny bubbles appear on the surface, 3 to 5 minutes.

Cream 1 cup of butter until fluffy, then add the sugar, then the eggs, one at a time, stirring well after each addition. Add the salt and lemon zest. Stir in the flour alternately with the yeast mixture and mix well. (If the dough is too soft to knead, add more flour as needed.) Knead the dough on a floured board until its smooth and elastic (or in a mixer fitted with a dough hook attachment), 8 to 10 minutes.

Place the dough in a greased bowl, cover it with a damp towel, and let it rise in a warm place until doubled in bulk, 45 minutes. Spread the dough 1/2-inch thick in a shallow buttered 18- by 12-inch (half sheet) pan. Cover and let it rise again until doubled in bulk, 45 minutes.

Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Melt the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter and spread it over the dough. Sprinkle the dough with more sugar and the cinnamon and chopped nuts, if desired. Bake the kuchen until golden, 15 to 20 minutes.

This recipe yields 18 servings.

NOTES :
This recipe originally ran with a story in the Food section in 1992. Former Times critic Charles Champlin wrote about the food cooked by his grandmother, mother and great aunt. His great-aunt Julie used to make a kuchen similar to this.

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