Instructions: Heat 1 tablespoon of the peanut oil in a wok over moderate heat. Stir-fry the shrimp with the ginger and 1/4 teaspoon salt for 1 to 2 minutes, or until they turn pink and become bouncy. Remove and set aside to cool.

Beat the eggs with 1/2 teaspoon salt and pepper. Add the cooked shrimp. Assemble all of the other ingredients on a plate. Have the seasonings mixture and the thickening nearby.

Heat 3 tablespoons of the groundnut oil in a hot wok until just beginning to smoke. Pour in the egg mixture, and cook over moderate heat, breaking the edges of the omelet with a spatula and tilting the wok to allow the soft center to run out. There is no need to keep the eggs in one shape. Continue to cook until the eggs are softly set and slightly brown on the outside. Remove to a warm plate and place over a pot of hot water to keep warm while you make the sauce.

Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of the peanut oil to the wok over moderate heat. Saute the mushrooms, bamboo shoots, peas, and the scallions for 1 minute. Add the seasoning mixture and stir well. Stir in the thickening. Spoon over the omelet and serve immediately.

This recipe yields 8 to 10 servings.

Comments: As in every cuisine, eggs are the great standby. Most Chinese households raise a few chickens and perhaps some ducks or geese. The bonus, of course, is the eggs - a valuable source of food for the family. Eggs are added to soups and stir-fried dishes for extra substance and nutrition, and omelets of every description abound from region to region. The following dish is one that would grace many family tables in South China, the shrimp (prawns) and the separate sauce marking the dish for special occasions.

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