Instructions: Rinse shrimp and remove shells. Place shells in small pot with water. Cut off cilantro roots, if any, and scrub well under running water. Add roots, if any, to pot. Separate leaves and reserve. Chop stems and add to pot. Bring to a boil, lower heat, and simmer, partly covered, about 20 minutes, while you prepare remaining ingredients.

Combine pepper, fennel, coriander, salt, sugar and turmeric in spice mill or clean coffee grinder; grind fine. Trim ends from gourds and pare lightly. Quarter lengthwise, then cut into 1/4 inch slices. Peel and dice onion.

In heavy 3-quart casserole, melt butter over fairly low heat. Stew onions gently until almost translucent. Add spice mixture and coconut; toss 1 minute or so. Add gourd and remove from heat.

Strain shrimp broth and return to pot. Boil and reduce to 3/4-1 cup. Add to vegetables. Simmer, covered, until gourd is translucent and just barely tender, 5-10 minutes.

Meanwhile, gradually stir buttermilk into cornstarch. Bunch together cilantro leaves and slice thin. Add buttermilk mixture to casserole and bring to a simmer over moderate heat, stirring until thickened, about 1 minute. Add shrimp and cook until barely done, another minute or so. Remove from heat and gradually add cilantro leaves, tasting for correct balance.

Note: Fuzzy gourd is available in Asian markets and some of the Bay Areas specialty produce markets. If you cannot locate it, you can substitute any soft squash, such as zucchini, or winter melon.

If you would like to email yourself the recipe for later use, or share the recipe with your friends or family, enter the email addresses below and this recipe will be emailed to you and others as well.