Instructions: For the Preserved Lemons: Wash and dry the lemons. Set aside 10 for juicing; cut the rest into 6 wedges if small, 8 for average-size lemons. Sprinkle a little salt into a large clean glass jar. Add a layer of lemon wedges, sprinkle them generously with salt, and continue adding lemons and salt, pressing down with a spoon to eliminate air pockets.

Some juice will soak out of the lemons right away; top with lemon juice to barely cover the lemon wedges, then cover the jar and let stand at room temperature for a week, turning the jar daily to redistribute the salt and juice. Pour in a half-inch layer of olive oil and store in a cool pantry or in the refrigerator for up to 4 months.

Skin the salmon and remove any pin bones. Season it lightly with salt and pepper and place the filet skin-side down on a baking sheet lined with foil or parchment. Leave it at room temperature while heating the oven to 300 degrees.

Rinse the preserved lemon wedges and finely chop them. Combine the lemons with the parsley, cilantro and olive oil and season to taste with pepper.

Bake the salmon without turning until the juices begin to seep out around the edges, 18 to 20 minutes. When the salmon is nearly done, toast the pappadums directly over a gas flame or electric burner on very low heat, turning frequently, until puffed up and crisp, 1 to 2 minutes.

To serve, divide the salmon among 4 dinner plates and spoon the lemon relish alongside. Break the pappadums into 3 or 4 pieces each and lean them against the salmon. Serve this with poached asparagus or another simple vegetable.

Variation: Pit and chop 6 to 8 Kalamata or Gaeta olives and add them to the relish.

This recipe yields 4 servings.

Comments: Pappadums are sold at Indian markets. Choose organic or certified pesticide-free lemons if at all possible to make the preserved lemons, which need to be made a week ahead.

NOTES :

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