Instructions: 1. Cut unpeeled cucumbers in 1/4-inch slices. (If cucumbers are large, cut in half lengthwise, then slice.) Crush, by pounding decisively once or twice, with the side of a cleaver or the bottom of a glass. (Leave the cucumber slices intact.)

2. Add any of the dressings below and toss.

3. Refrigerate, covered, only to chill (about 20 minutes). DRESSINGS:

1 slice ginger root, minced, placed in a saucepan with 2 tablespoons sugar and 4 tablespoons vinegar, then brought to a boil, stirring.

2 scallions, minced and marinated 1o minutes in half a cup of vinegar.

(Just before serving, sprinkle cucumbers with salt and pepper to taste.)

1 garlic clove, minced, combined with 2 tablespoons vinegar and 1/2 teaspoon salt. (Just before serving, sprinkle cucumbers with a few drops of sesame oil.)

VARIATION: Instead of crushing the cucumbers, peel and either slice very thin or sliver.

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