Instructions: Scrub the potatoes and cut into very thin slices, preferably using a mandolin. Heat the oil in a deep fryer and cook the potato slices until crisp and golden. Drain on kitchen paper. Season with salt.

Horseradish mayonnaise: Put the grated horseradish in a bowl with the vinegar, lemon juice, mustard, salt, pepper and sugar. Fold in the softly whipped cream but do not over mix or the sauce will curdle. It keeps for 2-3 days but cover it tightly so that it does not pick up other flavours in the refrigerator.

To assemble: Put a little mayonnaise in the centre of a plate with a warm potato wafer on top and a ruffle of smoked salmon on top of that. Brush with freshly squeezed lemon juice, then add another blob of mayonnaise, some pepper and another potato wafer. Repeat twice more if you can manage to balance it, ending with a potato wafer. Garnish with more horseradish mayonnaise, red onion rings and a couple of cheeky chives.

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