Instructions: * Note: Achiote [ah-chee-OH-tay] is the rusty-red seed of the tropical annatto tree. Slightly smaller than a peppercorn, this triangular seed has a mild, musky, peppery taste. However, it is used primarily to color rice and other foods a bright saffron yellow. Heated with oil or ground with herbs and spices, achiote is a culinary staple of the Caribbean and Latin America.

To make achiote oil: In a small saucepan, heat 1/2 cup vegetable oil over medium heat for about 5 minutes. Add 2 tablespoons achiote seeds and cook until the oil turns crimson, 3 to 5 minutes, stirring. Cool the oil, strain and refrigerate indefinitely. If achiote seeds are unavailable, stir 2 tablespoons each paprika and turmeric in their place.

Seafood Alternatives: grouper, tilapia, catfish, flounders, shrimp Heat the oil in a large frying pan over medium heat. Add the onions, toss and cook, partly covered, until softened about 5 minutes, stirring. Add the garlic, tomatoes, basil, chiles, salt and pepper.

Cook, partly covered, until the onions are very tender, about 20 minutes, stirring often and mashing the tomatoes with the spoon or spatula.

Uncover and cook until moisture evaporates and the sofrito is thick, 8 to 10 minutes, stirring often.

Rinse the snapper with cold water and pat dry with paper towels. Stir the capers into the onion mixture and arrange the snapper on top. Season the fish with salt, pepper and cilantro. Cover and cook until just opaque, 5 to 7 minutes.

With a wide spatula, transfer the snapper to a plate. Spoon the sofrito into a shallow serving dish and set the snapper on top. Serve at once.

This recipe yields 4 servings.

Comments: Sofrito derives its name from the Spanish verb "sofreir," which means to fry lightly. In Spain, onions, leeks and bacon were slow-cooked in olive oil to produce classic sofrito, the base for much regional Spanish cooking. The island version adds native tomatoes, chiles, achiote seeds and salt pork to this blend. Sofrito is great to have on hand for a quick sauce; store it refrigerated up to 1 1/2 weeks or freeze. Snapper sofrito is ideally paired with rice or beans.

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