Instructions: Soft-shell crabs are in season from late spring through August. You should buy them alive and use them the same day.

Prepare the crab: Remove the lungs and tail and arrange the crab on a large platter. Sprinkle with the minced jalapeno and the chopped cilantro. Pour the lime juice over and let marinate for at least 30 minutes, refrigerated.

When ready to cook season lightly with salt.

Prepare the batter: In a small bowl, sift together the flour and baking powder. Whisk in the water until the batter is smooth, then add the remaining ingredients, seasoning with cayenne and salt to taste. If made earlier in the day, set the bowl into an ice bath.

At serving time, in a deep, heavy saucepan, wok, or deep-fat fryer, heat 3 inches of oil to 350 degrees.

Dip each crab into the batter and coat well. Carefully place one or two in the hot oil and cook until golden brown, about 2 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon or a flat strainer and drain on paper or clean toweling. Keep warm while preparing the remaining crab.

Serve with a green salad and oil-and-vinegar dressing.

Serves 4.

To prepare ahead: Marinate the crabs, have the batter ready. Heat the oil at serving time and continue with the recipe.

Note: Shrimp can be substituted for the crab. If using shrimp, peel, leaving the tail intact.

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