Instructions: The foods of Singapore, Malaysia and Indonesia are a rich and complex amalgam of Chinese, Malay and South Indian flavors influenced by neighboring Thailand, Laos and Cambodia. It is at this spicy crossroads that the worlds first fusion fare emerged over centuries of intermingling, yielding lemongrass-laced coconut milk broths; tart, sweet, spicy salads; and fiery curries.

Less expensive than a trip to Singapore or Bali is a meal at Indigo in the Riverside Hotel on Fort Lauderdales Las Olas Boulevard.

Trained in the school of hard knocks, executive chef Michael Smith began cooking at 15 when he walked into a French restaurant and asked for a job. By 16 he was at the Crab House and now, at 33, has mastered an updated Asian fusion based on his own research and that of former owner Ron Morrison, who traveled to Singapore and immersed himself in the foods of the region. (The restaurant gets its name from a woman there named Indigo who shared many recipes.)

Many of the regular Southeast Asian customers say my food is as good or better than back home, Smith says.

Indigo is a mellow place where you can relax inside in the aura of the Orient or sit outside and people-watch. Shortly after you take a seat, a server brings a basket of pastelkrupek (puffed shrimp crackers), crisped pappadam (thin, lentil-paste wafers) and thick, warm triangles of pita plus bowls of lemony hummus and pickled cucumber slices.

Agonize over whether to start with smoky duck wonton soup, the rich but light broth made from boiled, smoked duck bones, or Sulawesi crab soup, a spicy broth floating with lumps of blue crab, diced tomato and scallions thats named for an Indonesian island.

The sate babi brings skewers of spicy grilled chicken or shrimp (but no pork, although babi means pork in Malay) with peanut and pineapple dipping sauces. Also good are crab spring rolls stuffed with shredded jicama, bok choy, cellophane noodles and cilantro with gingery plum sauce.

Delve into siap mepanggang, Balinese coconut-grilled chicken, for your main course. This dish is always part of the elaborate temple offerings at traditional ceremonies in Bali. One taste, and youll know why the gods are pleased. Chicken quarters are marinated in spices, simmered in coconut milk, then grilled and glazed in a coconut reduction and sprinkled with coconut flakes and peanuts. This comes with a cone of rice shaped like Mount Agung, Balis tallest peak, and stir-fried bok choy, carrots, cabbage and sweet peas.

Or opt for Balinese-style lamb chops in a reduction of coconut milk and lemongrass topped with spicy pumpkin seeds. The succulent smoked tea duckling has crackling crisp mahogany skin and a faint jasmine aroma from the tea leaves over which its smoked. Delicious with the cinnamon sauce and cone of nasi goreng (fried rice).

Vegetarians can dig into vegetable nasi goreng or vegetable beehoon, a tangle of wok-tossed rice vermicelli with portobello mushrooms, carrots, cabbage and caramelized shallots in a curried mustard and soy glaze. Other noodle options are shrimp udon and Singapore rice noodles with shrimp and chicken in a chili-lime broth crowned with peanuts, chilies and deep-fried noodle crisps.

Rounding out the menu are salads like fruit and cucumber in a spiced tamarind relish, chicken and green papaya and Singapore Caesar with shrimp toast; naan bread pizzas; sandwiches, and desserts like key lime pie and tiramisu.

Take the tour of Southeast Asia Sunday through Friday from 5 to 8 p.m.: Pick one appetizer and two entrees for $38. p.m. daily. Miami Daily Herald

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