Instructions: Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.

Cut the squash in half, scoop out the fibers, and place cut-side down on a baking sheet. Roast until tender, about 45 minutes.

Meanwhile, bring a saucepan of water to a boil. Blanch the carrots for 3 minutes, drain, and set aside.

When the squash is nearly done, heat the reserved oyster oil and olive oil in a medium nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the garlic and shallots and saute until golden, about 2 minutes. Add the mushrooms and saute until they begin to soften, about 3 minutes. Stir in the carrots and broth and cook for 2 minutes, scraping up the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon. Add the oysters and watercress and stir until just wilted, about 1 minute. Season with 1 teaspoon salt and pepper. Keep warm.

Use a fork to scrape out the squash flesh in spaghetti-like strands. Place in a bowl and gently toss with the remaining salt and pepper. Divide the squash among plates, mounding it in the center. Spoon the ragout over the squash and serve immediately.

NOTES : Partnered with the sophisticated flavors of shiitake mushrooms and smoked oysters, the humble squash is elevated to a new level. As its name implies, the flesh of this squash resembles long strands of pasta, and, like pasta, its mild taste becomes a backdrop for a flavorful sauce.

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