Instructions: For Tomato Sauce: Heat oil in heavy large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add garlic and saute 1 minute. Add crushed tomatoes, diced tomatoes with juices and sugar. Simmer over medium heat for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add stock and wine. Simmer uncovered until reduced to 5 cups, about 20 minutes. Remove from heat. Whisk in butter. Season with salt and pepper. (Can be made 2 days ahead. Cool. Cover and chill.)

For Meatballs: Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Combine beef, breadcrumbs, chilies, 1/4 cup tomato sauce, pine nuts, onion, bell pepper, egg, tomato paste, garlic, salt, pepper, fennel and thyme in large bowl; mix well. Using 1 heaping tablespoon for each, form mixture into balls; transfer to 2 baking sheets. Bake until cooked through, about 15 minutes.

Bring tomato sauce to simmer. Add meatballs and simmer 1 minute.

Meanwhile, cook spaghetti in large pot of boiling salted water until tender but still firm to bite. Drain well, reserving 1 cup cooking liquid.

Transfer cooked spaghetti to large serving bowl. Add tomato sauce and meatballs and toss to coat. Add reserved cooking liquid to spaghetti by tablespoonfuls to moisten if necessary. Serve, passing Parmesan separately.

Comments: Located in a century-old coal warehouse that stoked the train coming from Albuquerque, the Zia Diner is in the National Register of Historic Places - and on many lists of favorite neighborhood restaurants. Regulars fuel up with such popular dishes as chicken-fried steak and meat loaf with green chilies and pine nuts. The latter provided the inspiration for another Zia Diner classic: spaghetti with chili and pine nut meatballs.

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