Instructions: I first sampled this in Trieste, Italy, in 1983, and it has become a standard in my repertoire. Many people back away in horror at the prospect of any dish made with 15 cloves of garlic, but they are pleasantly surprised if they agree to taste it. The sauce becomes smooth and creamy, and the garlic flavor is more mild than sharp. The key is to remove the green core of each garlic clove, which is where the bitterness resides. Split the clove in half and use the tip of your knife to remove the green portion from both halves of the clove.

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
15 cloves garlic, finely minced
1 teaspoon tomato paste
1 cup unflavored dried bread crumbs
1 1/4 cups dry white wine (Tocai, Pinot Bianco or Pinot Grigio)

1/4 cup cognac
Zest from 1 lemon, grated
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 1/4 pounds large or jumbo shrimp (16 to 20 large), peeled and deveined 1/4 cup finely minced flat-leaf parsley
Water or fish stock (optional)

1 pound spaghetti

In a large pot over low heat, heat the oil, garlic and tomato paste, stirring with a wooden spoon, until the garlic starts to stick to the bottom of the pot.

Add the bread crumbs and stir to combine. Add, stirring after each addition and in the following order, the wine, cognac, lemon zest, salt and pepper to taste, shrimp and parsley. Increase the heat to medium-high or high, bring almost to a boil and cook for about 15 minutes. The sauce should be creamy; if the sauce becomes too thick, add water or, if you have it, fish stock until it reaches a creamy consistency. Remove from the heat, cover and set aside to cool slightly.

Refrigerate for 2 hours to concentrate the flavors.

When the sauce is ready, bring a large pot of cold water to a boil. When the water reaches a boil, add a pinch of salt and let it return to boiling. Cook the spaghetti according to the package instructions.

Meanwhile, return the pot of sauce to low heat to warm.

Drain the pasta well in a colander; do not rinse! Add the spaghetti to the sauce pot, toss well and serve immediately in warm bowls.

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