Instructions: In a 5- to 6-quart pan over high heat, bring about 4 quarts water to a boil. Add spaghetti and cook, stirring occasionally, until barely tender to bite, about 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a 10- to 12-inch frying pan over medium-high heat, stir garlic in olive oil often until fragrant (do not brown), 1 to 2 minutes. Add wine, clam juice, and reserved liquid from clams and boil until reduced to about 1 cup, 6 to 8 minutes. Add clams and stir occasionally until hot, 1 to 2 minutes.

Drain spaghetti. Add to clam sauce along with parsley and chili flakes; mix, and add salt to taste. Divide equally among four wide bowls.

This recipe yields 4 servings.

Comments: Spaghetti with clams is a deceptively straightforward dish - far more satisfying than its few ingredients would imply. Canned whole baby clams are more tender than the canned chopped variety; theyre in excellent company with good olive oil, noodles cooked just enough to maintain their bite, and lots of garlic and parsley. Enhance a vinaigrette with purchased tapenade and toss it with peppery greens for a flavorful salad that pairs well with the pasta. Purchased breadsticks and a dessert of ripe, juicy pears round out a dinner that goes from the pantry to the table in record time.

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