Instructions: Rinse shrimp well and shell, reserving shell and heads.

Cut 3 lemongrass stalks into 1-inch sections and crush lightly with flat side of a heavy knife. In a saucepan combine crushed lemongrass with reserved shrimp shells and heads, water, coriander roots, salt, and pepper and simmer, uncovered, 20 minutes. Strain broth through a fine sieve into another saucepan.

Thinly slice lower 6 inches of remaining lemongrass stalk, discarding remainder of stalk, and combine with broth and gingerroot. Simmer broth 5 minutes. Add shrimp and simmer 1 minute, or until shrimp are just firm to touch. Stir in fish sauce, lime juice, and sliced chili.

Serve soup warm or at room temperature, garnished with coriander leaves, lime leaves, and chilies.

Makes about 6 cups.

Note: This soup as a version of the classic "Tom Yaam Goong." In its homeland this soup would have far more hot chilies. The above version has been toned down by Gourmet Magazine to appeal to newcomers to Thai cuisine, but veterans can add more chilies to make this soup as incendiary as they wish.

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