Instructions: Rinse and sort through beans. In a deep 3 1/2- to 4-quart pan, bring 2 quarts of the water to a boil over high heat. Add the beans. Let water return to a boil; then boil, uncovered, for 2 minutes. Remove the pan from heat, cover, and let stand for 1 hour. Drain and rinse beans, discarding cooking water.

In a small nonstick frying pan, combine cumin seeds, oregano, paprika, and ground chiles; cook over medium heat, stirring, until paprika darkens and cumin seeds become fragrant (3 to 5 minutes). Remove from heat and set aside.

In a 3 1/2-quart or larger electric slow cooker, combine onion, bell pepper, garlic, and bay leaf; sprinkle with paprika mixture and baking soda. Add beans to cooker, pour in remaining 3 cups water. Cover and cook at low setting until beans are very tender to bite (10 1/2 to 12 1/2 hours).

Stir in tomatoes. Increase cooker heat setting to high; cover and cook until chili is heated through (about 3 more minutes). Stir in cilantro. For each serving, place 1/4 cup of the cheese in a wide, shallow bowl; ladle in chili. Serve with condiments to add to taste, if desired.

This recipe yields 6 to 8 servings.

Comments: This slow-cooker chili is adapted from a contemporary classic - the meatless black bean chili that attained gastronomic fame at Greens, a vegetarian restaurant at Fort Mason in San Francisco.

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