Instructions: Bring 2 quarts water to a boil, add the bean curd noodles, and blanch for 1 minute. Drain in a colander and set aside.

Toast the sesame seeds until golden in a dry frying pan over medium-low heat for 15 minutes, tossing occasionally. Set aside. Heat a wok or heavy skillet until hot, add the oils, and heat until hot. Add the hot chile paste and stir about 10 seconds, then add the leeks and toss to coat them. Add the rice wine or sake and stir-fry over high heat about 1 1/2 minutes, until just tender. Add the bean sprouts and toss lightly for 30 seconds.

Add the premixed Garlic Dressing and the bean curd noodles. Toss lightly over high heat until heated through.

Remove and spoon onto a platter. Sprinkle the sesame seeds over the top.

Serve hot or at room temperature.

NOTES : When customers walk into a traditional Chinese restaurant in Asia, small
dishes are always served to nibble on as you contemplate the menu.

This is such a dish. Fresh bean curd noodles are usually sold at Asian markets. If they are unavailable, press very firm tofu to remove excess water and cut into matchstick-size shreds.

Tofu is extraordinarily versatile, and in noodle form it provides a wonderful staple for different foods and dressings. Since tofu is coolish in nature, it is not unusual for it to be cooked with pungent seasonings, such as garlic and hot chiles to provide balance. [Nina Simonds]

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