Instructions: In this recipe for spicy winter-squash soup, taken from his cookbook, Smith says any winter squash, calabaza, butternut or Hubbard, will do, as will a cooking pumpkin. Latin markets carry calabaza and plantains; hard green bananas can be used instead of green plantains, if necessary.

8-10 servings

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 large sweet onion, such as Vidalia, chopped 3 celery ribs, chopped
4 garlic cloves, minced
1 tablespoon Madras-style curry powder
1 1/2 pounds butternut squash, pared with a sharp knife 2 green plantains, peeled and cut up
6 cups chicken broth or canned low-sodium broth, as needed 2 sprigs of fresh oregano or 1/2 teaspoon dried oregano 2 sprigs of fresh sage or 1/2 teaspoon dried sage 1/2 teaspoon hot red pepper sauce
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup toasted pumpkin seeds, for garnish Chopped fresh chives, for garnish

Heat the oil in a soup pot over medium-low heat. Add the onion and celery and cover. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is translucent, about eight minutes. Add the garlic and cook for one minute.

Add the curry powder and stir until fragrant, about 30 seconds.

Stir in the squash and plantain, then the broth, oregano and sage.

Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low. Simmer, partially covered, until the squash is very tender, about 20 minutes. Remove from the heat.

In batches, pulse the soup in a blender or food processor to make a chunky puree. Return to the pot and season to taste with the hot sauce and salt and pepper. Reheat until piping hot.

Ladle into soup bowls and garnish with the pumpkin seeds and chives.

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