Instructions: Place pancetta in a single layer in a 10-by 15-inch rimmed baking pan. Bake in a 350 degree oven until light brown but not crisp, 20 to 25 minutes.

Discard fat; let cool. In a bowl sprinkle yeast over water; let stand until dissolved, about 5 minutes. Add sugar, oil, salt, and milk. Stir in 5 cups of the flour. Turn onto a lightly floured board and knead, adding flour as required to prevent sticking, until dough is smooth and no longer sticky, 8 to 10 minutes. Let dough rest 10 minutes. On a lightly floured board, knead a few turns to e xpel air. Reflour board and roll dough into an evenly thick 12- by 14-inch rectangle. Spread cheese filling over dough, then arrange pancetta on top; scatter with onion filling. Working from long side, roll up dough. Pinch long seam closed. Cut into 8 equal pieces. For each, along 1 cut side gently stretch dough to enclose filling, pinching along center to form a seam. Sprinkle 2 baking sheets each 12 by 15 inches with cornmeal. Evenly space focaccia seam side down on sheets, then press gently to flatten to about 2 inches high. Brush with egg. Bake in a 350 degree oven until deep golden, 35 to 40 minutes; switch pan positions halfway through baking. Let cool on a rack at least 30 minutes; serve warm or at room temperature. If making ahead, chill airtight up to 1 day, or freeze.

Makes 8. For Cheese-chard filling: Half-fill a 5- to 6-quart pan with water and bring to a boil over high heat. Put in swiss chard. Cook until stems are pliable, about 11/2 minutes; drrain, rinse with cool water, and pat very dry. Coarsely chop. In a bowl mix chard, ricotta cheese, parmesan cheese and spices. For Onion filling: In a 10- to 12-inch frying pan over medium heat, occasionally stir the sliced onions, olive oil and garlic until onions are very soft and deep golden, 30 to 35 minutes. Add thyme and pepper to taste.

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