Instructions: Many think living in California means year-round availability of all things fresh. But to cook seasonally - which offers the benefit of optimum nutrition, peak flavor and a commitment to locally produced foods - you cant cook with tomatoes in winter or asparagus in autumn. You either use what is growing close by or the best organic canned, frozen or dried product.

Winter is the most challenging time for me and my restaurant kitchens. And so, when we are offered that first box of asparagus from one of our favorite farms, we breathe a sigh of relief. Finally, we can begin using fewer root vegetables, hearty greens and winter squashes. Those first shoots are the beginning, soon to be followed by strawberries, snap peas and baby artichokes.

I like asparagus firm, yet softened so the sweet grassy flavor comes out.

Many think the tiny spears are the best. But I like the big thick spears, full-flavored, meaty, voluptuous.

You can boil asparagus, but why let any flavor escape into the water? I love it grilled, or even roasted. I steam it lightly first, then rub it with olive oil and finish cooking on the grill or in the oven, next to a roast of pork, lamb or chicken.

But asparagus is best steamed.

I use a double-tiered Japanese steamer for everything, laying a few pounds of asparagus at a time evenly on the tiers. I cut or break off the bottoms of the asparagus spears. Breaking may seem like a lot of waste, but it removes any stringiness.

Often, I add aromatic ingredients to the water: a few slices of lemon, orange, sprigs of rosemary or oregano, or slices of onion or garlic. A few tablespoons of very fruity olive oil can somehow seep through the holes and add a touch of flavor. I even add pepper, lemon salt, garlic or herbs to the top of the spears in the steamer.

Asparagus is a great diet food. One cup has about 70 calories, is full of vitamins A and C and acts as a natural diuretic and a kidney cleanser.

Theres no proper way to eat asparagus. Steamed, grilled, roasted, on salads, as a side dish, or without a fork, using your fingers, straight out of the steamer or off the grill.

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