Instructions: Cook the flesh of dense-textured squashes with a little milk until soft, with a clove of garlic if you like, then mash with a potato masher or puree in a blender. The puree can be further enriched with a knob of butter or cream, or instantly enlivened with a dash of Tabasco, ground allspice, or Singaporean chilli sauce. For a spiced puree, add a little mild spice paste by the teaspoon with cream to taste.

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