Instructions: Optional garnish: Strawberries or other fresh fruit

Layers: Line the bottoms of two round 8-inch layer pans with aluminum foil, trimmed to fit; butter or oil the foil and the sides of the pans, dust with flour, knock out excess, and set aside. (If preferred, four pans may be used to bake the layers.)

Preheat the oven to 360 degrees, approximately halfway between the 350 degree F and 375 degree F markings.

Beat the eggs with a mixer at high speed until fluffy, then gradually beat in the sugar; add the lemon zest; beat the mixture until thick and pale.

Meanwhile, sift together the flour, baking powder, and salt.

Beat the melted butter into the eggs and sugar, then beat in the dry ingredients and milk alternately at slow speed, starting and finishing with dry ingredients. Beat in the flavoring,

Spread the batter in the pans, bang each pan on the counter twice to level the batter, and bake 15 to 18 minutes, until the cake shrinks slightly from the sides and is light gold on top. Cool the layers briefly in the pans, then turn onto cake racks, remove the foil, and cool.

Filling: Whisk together the sugar, flour and salt.

In a saucepan, whisk the eggs to mix well; whisk in the cream, then the dry ingredients. Add the lemon zest.

Cook the custard, stirring constantly, over medium heat until it thickens; boil it for a minute or two, stirring.

Cool to lukewarm, whisking now and then; add the vanilla.

Assembling the cake: With a serrated knife, split each layer in two (if youve made four layers, dont split them). Place a layer on a serving plate; spread one-third of the filling over it in a thick layer, keeping the filling 1/2 inch from the edges; add the remaining layers and filling, topping the cake with the best-looking top surface. Press the top lightly to encourage small swags of filling to emerge between the layers.

Sift confectioners sugar over the top. To make a lacy pattern - a classic prettification - first lay a paper doily on the cake, sprinkle with sugar,,rdserving time.

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