Instructions: This is the seventh of 10 columns by Cat Cora, executive chef of Postino in Lafayette. They are being written with Nicholas Boer.

WHEN THE SEASON changes, so does my menu. Right now Im gearing up for summer - tomatoes and corn come to mind right away. and mussels are always on my mind. Theyre so black and handsome.

Five or six years ago, I wouldnt have considered mussels for my summer menu.

When the weather gets really hot, mussels often go bad - but now, with great farm-raised mussels available from cooler climates year-round, I serve them all the time. Mussels are a year-round treat: They are light - making them a great warm-weather dish, and their steamy goodness makes them ideal on a chilly night.

But, back to summer. After I think about what produce will be in season, I think about the temperature - thatll tell me what cooking methods to use.

Winter is brrrr-raising. Summer is hot, so I like to steam. And - for all you beach bums out there - steaming is good for Speedos. Steaming is fast, not fatty.

Steams speed is important because menu planning is all about pans. Theres only so much room on the stove. The faster the pan the better the plan. We get slammed at the restaurant on Saturday nights - especially when the patio is inviting. Menu items that take three pans and 30 minutes wont work. At home, I dont want seven pans on the stove when Ive got seven hungry guests in the living room. And when Im entertaining for 300 at my restaurant-home I want to keep it easy. Refined but easy.

Steamed mussels are a one-pan wonder - a dish my dishwashers can appreciate.

We keep a big steamer going at the restaurant. We put a perforated, rectangular "hotel pan" inside a deeper solid hotel pan filled half-way with boiling water. The perforated pan gets loaded up with veggies and fish all night long. Because steaming is such a clean and gentle cooking method, we can use the same pan all night long. The dishwashers really like this idea.

At home, I do the same thing, but I use a pot and perforated insert designed specifically for steaming. Its a worthwhile purchase. My roomie and I steamed artichokes last night.

It was so easy.

At the restaurant, we snip off the artichoke leaves pointy tops with scissors. But I didnt even do that much last night. I was too busy sipping to be snipping. I just peeled the stems and steamed the artichokes under a tight-fitting lid for maybe 30 minutes. Then we dipped those tender leaves in bottled blue cheese dressing.

Artichokes give reward upon reward. Its fun working down to the heart. Warm artichoke heart in cool blue cheese dressing. Yum. If youre worried about that bikini, try lemon or soy sauce.

Steaming is such an entertaining-friendly cooking method. If you struggle to get all your dishes hot and ready at the same time, take control with steaming.

I often do my fish or veggies ahead three-quarters of the way and then finish them at the last minute in the steamer. If my steamed food is going to be ready early, I will turn the steamer off when its three-quarters done, and it will stay moist and warm, without overcooking, for quite a while. When everything else is ready to go, I give it a last-second steam blast. I love steam baths. I want to be in one right now.

But, instead, Im going to have a blast steaming these mussels. Im not going to use a steamer - I could, but then the mussel juices would get lost. Instead, Ill steam them in a saute pan and capture all that delicious shellfish liqueur.

Then, when my mussels are ready, Ill pour them from my saute pan into a red-hot skillet. Itll make a steam statement - sizzling and sputtering like a fajita plate at a Mexican restaurant. That should make an exciting summer presentation. I put a small cast-iron skillet on the flame.

OK. My prep cook has already gone through the mussels and thrown away any that were cracked. He rinsed them well and took off their little beards - a furry growth on the shells edge. My prep cooks barely old enough to shave, but he can de-beard like an expert.

Ive also got some slivered garlic, minced parsley and chopped Calabrian chili - a great-tasting pepper that comes packed fresh in olive oil. You can use whatever heat you like. Chili flakes work fine. For my summer menu, Ill add fresh corn, cherry tomatoes and sweet basil - maybe a little sausage But today, Im just testing and timing the technique. Im guessing three minutes - tops.

My saute pan goes on medium-high heat. In goes a pour of extra virgin olive oil followed by a big pinch of sliced garlic. The oil is not too hot, so my garlic slowly caramelizes. I love toasted garlic; it adds so much flavor. All my cooks know I like my garlic lightly browned.

Now, its nice and toasty, so I add my chilies and - after just a second - a couple handfuls of mussels. I toss them - saute-style - to coat their shells with the flavorful oil. In goes a little white wine - a good gulps worth. Then two gulps of fish stock. Im at the restaurant, where I have everything. Id probably use chicken broth at home.

I cover the mussels by putting an identical saute pan upside down on top of the pan. Steam starts to rise almost right away. I know the mussels are popping open inside and releasing all their good juices. I peek after about a minute and see all but one are wide open. I pick that bad one out with my tongs and throw it away.

I want the broth to be a little richer, so I let it simmer down a second or two. This is the point when Ill add my corn and tomatoes come summertime.

Instead, I add a big fat pat of cold butter and a small handful of freshly chopped parsley.

I transfer my smoking-hot skillet to a dinner plate that I decorated with a nice white napkin. I swirl the saute pan of mussels, letting the last of the cold butter blend into the broth. I taste it. No salt or pepper needed. Maybe a squirt of lemon, but I dont have any handy. Thats OK.

Now the test.

I pour my finished mussels into the skillet and - WOW - does it ever spit and steam. Hmmmm. My nice napkin is now all covered with "lovely"

mussel juices. Not a very nice look. For service Ill have to put the skillet on the napkin after I pour in the scallops.

And, um. As I pick up the screaming-hot skillet with my heavy kitchen towel, something that looks like mozzarella cheese strings from the plate to the bottom of the skillet. The skillet has completely melted the napkin and is now wearing a thin plasticlike coating. What a mess. I guess my dishwasher gets this plate of mussels.

Anyway, dont try this at home. Well, do actually. Just dont get the skillet quite so hot. Pour the mussels in the skillet out of sight, and quickly transfer them to a serving plate and to the table. And let the billowing steam impress your friends before they even take a bite. Contact Cat Cora or Nicholas Boer at

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