Instructions: To test steamed green beans for doneness, dip your fingers in cold water and tweak a bean. If it bends a little, the beans are crisp-tender; if it bends a lot, the beans are fully cooked. The less you cook the beans, the more vitamins they retain.

Remove the ends from the beans and, if they are young and tender, leave them whole. Otherwise, cut the beans in half on the diagonal. Bring water to a boil in the bottom of a steamer, put the beans in the top, and steam, covered, until the beans are cooked to your taste =97 about 5 minutes for tender but still quite crisp, up to 8 minutes for fully cooked.

Transfer the beans to a bowl and quickly toss them with a grating or two of nutmeg, a few drops of lemon juice, and cracked peppercorns to taste.

Arrange the beans on the serving plates. Slice the mushrooms and arrange a few slices over the beans. Mushrooms are optional. One pound serves 4 at 30

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