Instructions: Set a rack (cake rack, removable rim of a cake pan, or empty 2-inch-tall cans with both ends cut out) in a 12-inch steamer, 14-inch wok, 12- by 17-inch roasting pan, or 12-inch frying pan (with sides at least 2 inches tall). Pour water into steamer to about 1/2 inch below top of rack. Cover steamer and bring water to a boil over high heat.

Meanwhile, rinse and drain black beans. In a small bowl, with a wooden spoon, mash beans, garlic, and sugar together. Stir in sesame oil, wine, pepper, and 1/8 teaspoon salt.

Rinse fish and pat dry. Place in a shallow bowl or on a rimmed plate that will fit inside steamer without touching sides. Sprinkle 1/2 teaspoon salt inside cavity and over outside of fish. Spread black bean mixture inside and all over outside of fish.

Set bowl with fish on rack in steamer and cover. (If cover doesnt fit over fish, tent steamer with a large piece of foil, sealing it around pan edges so steam cant escape.) Steam fish for 5 minutes, then remove from heat and let stand until barely opaque but still moist-looking in center of thickest part (cut to test), about 4 minutes longer. If fish isnt done, return to heat and steam 1 to 2 minutes longer. Remove bowl with fish from steamer; if desired, carefully pour off any liquid in bowl.

Meanwhile, stack ginger slices and cut into fine slivers. Trim and discard ends from green onion; cut onion, including green tops, into 2-inch lengths, then cut pieces lengthwise into fine shreds.

Sprinkle ginger and green onion over fish. Drizzle soy sauce evenly over all. Pour salad oil into a 6- to 8-inch frying pan over high heat; when hot, in about 30 seconds, drizzle evenly over fish. Serve immediately.

This recipe yields 4 to 6 servings as part of a multicourse meal.

Comments: In China, a fish must be served with its head and tail intact to properly signify a favorable end of the old year and beginning of the new. Markets that serve a large Asian clientele usually carry small whole fish. You also may be able to order one from your fish market. If all else fails, steam 12 ounces of boned, skinned sole fillets in a single layer until opaque but still moist-looking in the center, about 5 minutes. If desired, serve fish as a separate course after the chicken.

Description: "(Dul See Zing Tat Sa Yu)"

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