Instructions: GROUND CHILE PEPPER BLEND - dried red chile peppers, medium-hot; such as a mixture of guajillo and pasilla and chipotle

STEAKS: Four 1 to 1 3/4-pound bone-in rib eye steaks, 1 to 1+1/4 inches thick, at least choice grade and preferably prime grade to serve 4 or more.

At least 2+1/2 hours and up to 12 hours before you plan to grill steaks, prepare dry rub, combining ingredients in a small bowl. Coat steaks thickly with mixture. Wrap steaks in plastic and refrigerate.

About an hour before you plan to grill steaks, get the onion rings ready for frying. Place onion rings in a large bowl and cover with milk. In a paper or plastic sack, combine flour, paprika, dried chiles, cumin and salt and cayenne pepper to taste. Pour at least 4 inches of oil in a Dutch oven or other large, heavy pan.

Remove steaks from refrigerator and let them sit at room temperature for about 30 minutes.

Fire up grill for a two-level fire capable of cooking first on high heat (1 to 2 seconds with the hand test) and then on medium heat (4 to 5 seconds with the hand test).

Grill steaks uncovered over high heat for 2+1/2 to 3 minutes per side. Move steaks to medium heat, turning them again, and continue grilling for 2+1/2 to 3 minutes per side for medium-rare doneness. The steaks should be turned a minimum of three times, more often if juice begins to form on the surface. If grilling covered, sear both sides of the meat first on high heat uncovered for 2+1/2 to 4 minutes; finish cooking with the cover on over medium heat for 5 to 6 minutes, turning the steaks once midway.

Meanwhile, heat oil for the onion rings to 375 degrees. Drain onions and dredge them in the seasoned flour. Fry onions, in batches for 2 to 3 minutes or until crisp. Serve them immediately, piled high on the hot Pyless steaks.

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