Instructions: (Enchiladas Callejeras)

Makes 6 appetizer servings. LACTO

These gutsy, spicy little snacks are typical street food in most parts of Mexico (especially west-central Mexico). Though not saucy, they perfectly live up to their name, because "enchilada" literally means "tortilla covered in chile." Topped with seared zucchini, then dressed out with tangy romaine, pickled JALAPENO and crumbled cheese, theyre a concert of flavors that sings in perfect harmony.

Roast garlic on ungreased griddle or heavy skillet over medium heat, turning occasionally, until blackened in spots and soft, about 15 minutes. Cool, slip off papery skin.

While garlic is roasting, toast chiles on another griddle or skillet by opening chiles flat and pressing down firmly on hot surface with spatula; in a few seconds, when they crackle, flip them and press down to toast other side.

In a small bowl, cover chiles with hot water and let rehydrate 30 minutes, stirring frequently to in-sure even soaking. Drain and discard water.

Combine oregano, black pepper, cumin and cloves in food processor or blender, along with chiles, garlic and stock. Process to smooth paste, scraping and stirring every few seconds. (If mixture wont go through blender blades, add a little more stock.) Press mixture through medium-mesh strainer into bowl.

Taste and season liberally with salt. (It should taste salty and have a trace of bitterness.)

In wide, shallow bowl, combine ancho mixture with 1 tablespoon vinegar and enough water (it can take up to 4 or 5 tablespoons) to bring mixture to consistency of canned tomato sauce. Set aside.

To assemble enchiladas, heat 1 teaspoon oil in wok or heavy skillet over medium heat. Dip both sides of I tortilla into sauce, then immediately lay in skillet. After about 10 seconds, flip tortilla with spatula and sear sauce into other side for a few seconds. Fold tortilla in half and remove from skillet, draining as much oil as possible back into skillet. (You can cook more than 1 tortilla at a time, depending on the size of your skillet. Do not overlap tortillas in skillet.) Place folded tortilla on warm dinner plate. Set plate in warm oven while preparing remaining tortillas in same way. You might need to add a little oil with each tortilla. (Try not to let the pan get too hot; the sauce that clings to the pan will begin to bum.)

Cut zucchini lengthwise into 1/4-inch thick slices; cut each slice into 1/4-inch wide sticks, about 2 inches long. With the pan still over medium heat, add 1/2 tablespoon oil. Add zucchini and stir-fry until it begins to soften, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in any remaining sauce and cook about 1 minute.

Spoon a portion of zucchini over each serving of enchiladas, then sprinkle with cheese. Toss lettuce with remaining vinegar and arrange lettuce, radishes, onion, cilantro and jalapeno if using across middle of each serving and serve immediately.

Makes 6 appetizer servings of 2 tortillas or 4 main servings of 3 tortillas each.

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