Instructions: * Note: To make bouquet garni, combine in cheesecloth 2 thyme sprigs, 2 marjoram sprigs, 3 parsley sprigs, 1 bay leaf, 5 whole allspice, 10 whole white peppercorns, 10 whole black peppercorns and 12 fennel seeds.

To make court bouillon: In stockpot over moderate heat, sweat onions, carrots, celery, leeks and garlic in grapeseed oil until tender. Add bouquet garni and white wine. Fill pot with cold water until vegetables are just barely covered. Bring to a boil over high heat. Crown top with a little cold water. Reduce heat to a simmer. Simmer for 2 hours. Pour through fine strainer. Discard vegetables. (Makes 2 1/2 gallons)

To make soup: Roast pumpkin flesh-side down in 325 degree oven until tender. Scoop out meat. Discard shells.

In large nonreactive stockpot, saute onions and garlic. Add brown sugar. Cook for 5 minutes. Deglaze pot with cognac. Add cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger, cloves, bay leaf and pumpkin meat. Cook for 5 minutes. Add court bouillon and cream. Simmer for 20 minutes. Remove bay leaf. Add salt and pepper. Puree soup until smooth.

To make creme fraiche: In nonreactive container, combine cream and buttermilk. Allow to stand at room temperature for 72 hours, or until thickened. (Makes 2 pints)

To make vanilla creme fraiche: Split vanilla bean. Scrape out seeds. Add vanilla seeds to creme fraiche. Mix well.

To fry leeks: Wash leeks, removing all grit. Slice white and pale green parts very thinly. Dry slices thoroughly. Warm 2 teaspoons to 1 tablespoon grapeseed oil in saute pan over medium-high heat. Add leek slices. Saute, tossing, until crispy.

To serve: Garnish each 6-ounce serving of soup with 1 teaspoon vanilla creme fraiche, 1 teaspoon fried leeks and 1 teaspoon hazelnuts.

This recipe yields 1 gallon, about 16 servings.

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