Instructions: Chop the aubergines across into slices 2.5cm thick and then each slice into quarters. Chop the courgettes across into 1 cm slices and similarly the stalks of celery. Roughly chop the celery leaves and reserve. Cut the onions in half and then into fine half-moons.

Fill a heavy pan with olive oil to the depth of 1cm. When the oil is very hot (it should be almost spitting or the aubergines will take up too much oil) add the aubergines and fry until browned on each side. Remove with a slotted spoon, drain on kitchen paper and do the same for the courgettes.

Now add the celery and onions to the pan, turn down the heat and fry gently until golden brown. Add the tomatoes, a good pinch of salt, the vinegar, sugar, capers, chopped celery leaves, the parsley, oregano or marjoram and basil, the olives, the cooked aubergines and courgettes and simmer until the tomatoes break down to form a sauce - about 15 minutes. Check the balance of sweet and sour and then leave to cool.

It will keep for about 8 days (less in very hot weather) and improves with time. It should always be served at room temperature.

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