Instructions: Perhaps youve gone fishing in the Yucatan and, upon returning, had your Mexican guide split open some of your catch, smear it with anchiote and grill your tikin xik on a banana leaf over a wood fire. With a little blazing habanero salsa and some fresh tortillas, there is simply no better eating. I love the perfume that wafts from a grill full of banana leaves, and Im sold on the flavor it imparts to the fish. Dont be afraid the leaves will burn; If your fire is only medium hot, the leaves will crisp slightly, but still be pliable.

Rick Bayless, "Mexican Kitchen"

1 banana leaf (youll need a piece at least 2 feet long, 10-12 inches wide), plus
extra for garnish if you wish, defrosted if frozen 12-16 corn tortillas (plus a few extra in case some break)

About 1 cup salsa(essential chopped tomato habanero salsa)

1. Making 1/3 cup essential garlicky achiote seasoning paste. Very finely pulverize the achiote in a spice grinder, then transfer it to a small bowl and mix in the allspice, pepper, oregano and vinegar (youll have a crumbly, very thick mixture at this point). Roughly chop the garlic, sprinkle with the salt, then on your cutting board work the two into a smooth paste with a spoon or the flat side of a knife. Scoop the achiote mixture into the garlic, work the two together , then dribble on and work in enough water (about a tablespoon or 2) to give it all the consistency of a thick but spreadable paste.

2. Marinating the fish: Stir together 3 tablespoons of the achiote seasoning

(cover and refrigerate the rest to use as seasoning for rice or marinade for chicken or pork). and the sour orange or lime juice in a shallow dish. lay in the fish fillets and turn to coat well with the marinade. cover and refrigerate about an hour but not longer than 3 hours.

3. Finishing the dish. Light a gas grill or prepare a charcoal fire, letting the coals burn until they are covered with a gray ash and medium hot. Position the grill grate about 8 inches above the coals and lightly oil.

While the grill is heating, tear off eight 1/2 inch strips of banana leaf ( tear with the grain-each strip will be about 12 inches long). Cut the remaining leaf into 4 sections-they should be about twice as wide as your filets.

Lay out the section of leaf, center a fillet on it, spoon on a little of the marinade thats still in the dish, then fold the leaf over to enclose the fillet and fold both ends up. Tie each direction with one of the banana leaf strips.

Wrap the other fillets in the same manner.

Set up a steamer (a vegetable steamer in a large saucepan filled with 1/2 inch of water works well); heat to a boil . Wrap the tortillas in a heavy kitchen towel, lay in the steamer and cover. Boil 1 minute, turn off the heat and let stand without opening for 15 minutes.

Lay the fish packets on the medium hot grill. cover the grill and cook for about 10 minutes, a little longer for large fillets-theres really no way to tell if the fish is done enough to flake without opening a package, though 10 minutes is about average.

You have two choices for serving; Either remove the fish from the packages, slice into 1/2 inch strips and serve on a small warm platter (be sure to drizzle on all the juices from the packets) with salsa and warm tortillas passed separately; or carefully open the packets, fold the leaves back and under, creating a little nest for the fish, and serve each guest a packet to pick at, flaking off fish to dollop with salsa, wrap in warm tortillas and enjoy immensely.

Advance preparation: The achiote seasoning paste can be made a week or more

In advance of marinating the fish. the fish can marinate as long as 3 hours before grilling.

Shortcuts: Commercial achiote paste can replace homemade, and banana leaves may be omitted (make sure your grill grates are well oiled to ensure that the fish wont stick).

Variations and Improvisations: perhaps youll want to make extra to have leftovers to flake into pasta (penne would be nice); top the dish with chopped tomato salsa and Parmesan, if you want, and youll be ready to eat . You can prepare the same dish with 4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts (youll have a hurry up pollo pibil); simply increase the grilling time to about 15 minutes.

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