Instructions: Opening a homemade tamale is right up there with opening a Christmas present.

When you unwrap the corn husk, the escaping steam hints at the gift to come.

Then you take your first bite. And even if you have spent all day preparing masa and fillings, the marriage of ingredients is still a magical surprise.

Long before the Europeans arrived in the New World, tamales were associated with the feast days of indigenous people. But as Spanish and Indian cultures joined, the revered bundles of steamed masa corn became a Christmas tradition.

Over the years, families have gathered throughout Mexico to make tamales during the holidays. Men often prepare a fire to cook outside, while generations of women grind spices, simmer meats and create sauces before assembling the tamales.

In my family, we make tamales to celebrate two very special occasions in

December: Christmas and my mothers birthday, which falls on Dec. 24. Since my mother spent much of her childhood in the South, all food, including Christmas tamales, seemed to take on a Tex-Mex flavor.

Traditionally, however, three flavors of tamales are made this time of year: carnitas, or pork with red chile; chicken with a green sauce; and chile verde, or green chile tamales without meat. Sweet tamales also are made, often with raisins or tropical fruits. I love them all.

The basis of virtually every tamale is masa, corn soaked in lime and then ground. Fresh masa, which is sold in Mexican grocery stores and some large supermarkets, is preferable because it makes a lighter, fluffier tamale. But if you cant find it, most supermarkets carry masa harina (flour).

Whether you are making savory or sweet tamales, the procedure for cooking and assembling them is the same: Soak several corn husks in hot water until they become pliable. Tear two of the husks into strips that you will use later to close the filled tamales.

To assemble tamales, spread 1-2 tablespoons of masa dough in the center of each husk. Spoon about 2 tablespoons of filling over the dough. Fold the corn husk over the filling and dough, beginning with the right and left sides, and ending with the non-pointed husk end. Tie the bundle together with a corn husk strip, making sure that the filling is fully enclosed and the strips are securely knotted.

Arrange tamales in a steamer pan over boiling water, making sure they are not touching. Cover and steam about an hour, checking the water level every so often and adding more water if needed. One trick is to add a couple of coins to the boiling water. Theyll make a clinking sound, which lets you know there is still boiling water in the pan.

Here are recipes for two of my favorite holiday fillings, carnitas (shredded pork) and pina colada (pineapple and coconut). But if you are running short of time, heres another possibility: Buy a pre-cooked rotisserie chicken and a good prepared salsa. Shred the chicken and use it as a filling with a spoonful of salsa for each tamale.

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