Instructions: In many cultures, it was believed that even the immortals needed to eat.

While the elaborate rites of the ancient Egyptians receive plenty of press, the Aztec civilization of Central America was equally adept at catering (literally)

to the desires of their deities. And when their gods demanded offerings, they served up tamales.

Today, a stroll through Mexican markets and food stands is never complete without visiting a stall of these steaming cornhusks bulging with masa (dough).

Tamales - then and now - are at the heart of a cuisine that has been developing for 8,000 years.

Tamales are so versatile that theyre tough to define. As a starting point, lets just say that most tamales consist of corn masa (often filled with shredded meat, vegetables, or fruit) wrapped in corn husks or banana leaves and steamed. Their ingredients vary from region to region, and they range in size from one inch snacks to three-foot buffets-in-a-leaf.

The main ingredient of tamales, corn, has long been the lifeblood of Central and South American civilization. The Mayas believed that corn was the source of life, and they used it constantly in their diets. The Aztecs had corn tortillas and tamales on their daily menu as well as the sacrificial alter.

Their current name comes from the Aztec tamalli, a word for wrapped food. In most of Central and South America, tamal is used. Venezuelans call them hallacas, while Bolivians use the word humita.

Their names are hardly the only subjective aspect of tamales. Their fillings are the most flexible, mixing regional meats, vegetables, spices, fruits, and chiles with the corn masa. Veracruz uses chipotle chile fillings, while Arizona makes tamales with fresh corn instead of masa.

The masa, a corn flour-based dough, is the main ingredient of most tamales, though some variations substitute rice, fresh corn, and even potatoes. Sometimes a flavoring, such as a chile sauce, is folded into the masa.

The wrappers are often cornhusks or banana leaves, though other available leaves are used as well. A Mexican tamale called a corunda uses corn leaves rather than husks, and some tamales use avocado leaves, a clear Californian influence.

While it resembles a sandwich more in its use and popularity than in its ingredients and appearance, the tamale is a true Mexican classic that has slowly crept north of the border. It is served today in much the same way as centuries ago, and will likely be steaming in farmers stands for centuries to come.

Getting Started

Variation allows tamales to fill a lot of holes in a dinner plan. They can be made smaller and used as hors doeuvres or appetizers, or larger for a main dish. Depending on the fillings, tamales can be served alone (as they often are in Mexico), or in combination with other dishes. By adding sweets, they can make great desserts as well.

It is best to start with the masa dough. The dough calls for three main ingredients: masa harina (a corn flour available in most supermarkets), a liquid

(water or stock), and a fat (butter or shortening). Salt and baking powder are often included. The dough is ready when a piece of it floats in a bowl of water.

If the piece sinks, it needs more mixing.

The cornhusks may be hard to find, but many larger supermarkets carry them.

Short of that, the best place to find them is in Latin markets or online. They will often be dried, and need to be soaked in warm water before being used for wrapping.

Almost without exception, tamales are steamed. Line the bottom and top of the steamer with extra cornhusks, surrounding the tamales, to keep more steam in. A couple of inches of water should be brought to a light boil, and the tamales steamed above it. They should take 30 to 40 minutes. When done, the masa dough will pull away from the husk easily.

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