Instructions: In a small skillet heat oil over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking and using tongs, fry chipotles, 1 or 2 at a time, turning them, until puffed and just beginning to brown, about 10 seconds. (Do not let chilies burn or recado will be bitter.) Transfer chipotles as fried to a small bowl, letting excess oil drip off. Add boiling water and soak chipotles, tossing occasionally, until soft, about 20 minutes.

Heat a dry comal or flat iron griddle over moderately low heat and pan-roast onion, garlic, and tomatoes, turning them occasionally to ensure even roasting, until browned and soft throughout, 25 to 30 minutes. Discard garlic skins and tomatoes stems.

In a blender or food processor blend chilies, 1/2 cup soaking water, onion, garlic, tomatoes, tamarind pulp, and salt until smooth. (Recado may be made 5 days ahead and chilled, covered.)

Makes 3 1/4 cups.

To make tamarind pulp:
In a small saucepan barely cover tamarind with water and bring to a boil, covered, over moderate heat. Simmer tamarind gently, covered, stirring frequently, until pulp loosens and falls off seeds, about 30 minutes. (If mixture becomes too thick, add more water to keep barely covered.)

Strain mixture through a medium sieve into a bowl, pushing hard with back of a spoon to extract as much pulp as possible. If pulp does not measure about 1 1/2 cups, return solids to pan with water to barely cover and bring to a boil.

Strain tamarind again in same manner to extract more pulp. (Tamarind pulp may be made 1 week ahead and chilled, covered.) makes about 1 1/2 cups

A cook in San Francisco writes: "I make large quantities of tamarind pulp and freeze it in ice cube trays (about 1 Tablespoon per cube). I do the same for roasted chilies, keep the cubes in ziploc bags in the freezer, then it is simple to make great barbecue/grilling sauces and marinades like the Tamarind Recado on the fly all summer long in whatever quantity you need, and you can easily adjust the spice level and other ingredients (instead of just having a bunch of the same sauce on hand) to suit whatever youre grilling at the moment.

I also just used this (with a few variations) on a pork loin that I roasted in the oven.

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