Instructions: In recent years, the trend has been toward culinary innovations that combine Asian, European and American ingredients and cooking styles. We might think that only modern sensibilities could fathom such sophistication, but we should remember that it isnt the first time a gastronomic meeting of East and West culminated in a kind of fusion cuisine that changed cooking forever.

Tempura came long before, in the 16 th century. Many people think of it as Japanese fare, but thats only partly true. This dish of deep-fried, crispy seafood and vegetables actually was the brainchild of Portuguese Christian missionaries who made their home in Japan.

The name "tempura" derives from the Latin term Quattuor Tempora - the Ember Days during Lent and other specified times of the year.

These were fasting days, when meat was forbidden to be consumed. The abundance of Japanese seafood helped mightily.

The Jesuits cooked it in accordance with traditions back home: deep fried and crunchy brown. The Japanese refined the recipe. Gone was the thick, European-style batter in favor of a light one that would give the fish and shellfish a lacelike, crispy coating.

Japanese cooking oil was lighter, so the flavor of fresh seafood, rather than the taste of fat, would prevail. The Japanese decided to include a dipping sauce to give the ingredients extra flair. and they added vegetables. Fried foods were so well received in Japan that cooks must have figured, why not fry everything? Thus a dish born of religious sacrifice became a world-renowned, popular favorite - delicate, lightly golden, visually beautiful and satisfying.

Tempura is the kind of dish you make for an informal dinner. If family or friends dont mind hanging around the kitchen, its much better to feed them as you cook, handing out the finished pieces as theyre done, fresh from the fryer.

The pieces do hold for a while in a 250-degree oven. Were used to tempura straight, but, for special occasions, the Japanese serve it over rice and for lunch, over buckwheat ("soba") or "udon" noodles and broth.

The recipe isnt difficult to prepare, although two things are essential:

First is a cold batter mixed only slightly and used immediately after preparation to assure a tender coating.

The second essential is hot vegetable oil kept at a constant temperature. Hot oil sears the surface, preventing excess oil from penetrating the food, causing it to be greasy.

Firm white fish, shrimp, Asian eggplant, snow peas, shiitake mushrooms and sweet potatoes are among the more typical ingredients of a traditional tempura plate. But squid, scallops, clams, small whole fish, carrot slices, green beans, bell pepper strips, scallions and onion slices can be included. Be sure the ingredients are dry, and dredge them lightly in flour before dipping them in the batter. This helps the coating adhere better.

A side dish of pickles gives the dinner a more Japanese touch; plain rice is a fine accompaniment as well. All this, plus a glass of sake, beer or tea and the meal will be fit for a shogun.

If you would like to email yourself the recipe for later use, or share the recipe with your friends or family, enter the email addresses below and this recipe will be emailed to you and others as well.