Instructions: If youre going to tote baked beans to your picnic, they might as well be the best youve ever tasted. Texas-style beans, chock-full of smoked pork and mellowed with apples, are just the ticket.

In her new U.S.A. Cookbook, Sheila Lukens says that she first tasted the beans at a barbecue joint in Houston, and had four quarts shipped to her home in New York ``to make the moment last a little longer.

Salt to taste Wash beans and soak overnight in enough cold water to cover by 2 inches. Drain, rinse and drain again. Place in large, heavy pot; add water to cover by 2 inches. Bring to boil, reduce heat and simmer until beans are tender but not mushy, about 45 minutes. While cooking, skim off any foam that rises to the top. Drain beans and set aside.

Place bacon in a heavy, ovenproof pot. Cook over low heat until fat is just rendered (do not brown), 5 to 6 minutes. Remove bacon with a slotted spoon and set aside. Saute onion in bacon fat until wilted. Add bell peppers and stir-fry for five minutes. Add beans, reserved bacon and tomatoes (reserve the juice).

Add remaining ingredients except reserved tomato juice, apples and salt.

Fold together gently. Cover and bake at 350 degrees for two hours. Add apples and cup of reserved tomato juice. Bake, uncovered, until thick and fragrant, about two hours. Season with salt.

Makes six to eight servings.

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