Instructions: This simple soup uses thin rice noodles called rice vermicelli, which are readily available in Asian markets and in large supermarkets with ethnic food sections. You can also substitute other noodles like Japanese soba or even Italian angel hair. Unlike the rice noodles, both of these need to be precooked and added to the soup just as you serve it.

For a beverage, serve a chenin blanc, riesling, gewurztraminer, white zinfandel or muscat. Or, do as many ethnic restaurants do and serve beer, soft drinks or fruit-based drinks to help cool chili heat.

2 ounces dried thin rice vermicelli noodles 1 pound medium shrimp, shelled and deveined (reserve shells to simmer with chicken stock)

7 cups rich chicken stock (simmered with shrimp shells 5 to 10 minutes)

2 tablespoons Asian fish sauce or to taste 1 tablespoon Asian chili-garlic sauce or to taste 3 cups canned diced tomatoes, with juice 1 cup diagonally sliced green onions
2 teaspoons hot pepper sesame oil or to taste 1/2 cup loosely packed fresh cilantro leaves 3 tablespoons finely sliced garlic, fried in oil until crisp (see note)

Place noodles in bowl and cover with warm water until softened, 20 to 25 minutes.

Meanwhile, prepare shrimp. Simmer broth with shrimp shells.

Drain noodles and place in a tangle on cutting board. Cut through noodles crosswise and lengthwise to form 3- to 4 inch lengths.

Strain shrimp shells from stock, return stock to pot and bring to boil. Stir in fish sauce, chili-garlic sauce, tomatoes with their juice, onions and hot sesame oil. Add noodles and shrimp and simmer 1 to 2 minutes.

To serve, ladle into warm bowls and top with cilantro and crisp garlic. Serve immediately.

Note: Garlic can be fried up to 1 day ahead and stored airtight. To fry garlic, heat 1/4 inch of oil over medium heat. Add garlic and slowly cook until golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes. If oil is too hot, garlic will burn and become bitter so try a "tester" slice first.

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