Instructions: ULAWESI, Indonesia - Under the hard light of late morning, the Molucca Sea is stripped of subtler shades of blue, at least when viewed from a hilltop on this islands northern tip.

There is more color across the water, about 200 miles to the east, in the lush green of three islands now unfamiliar to most Westerners, but whose names once urgently beckoned explorers.

Ternate, Ambon and Banda: the Spice Islands. Their location in this distant sea couldnt seem any farther away if it was a fairy tale.

Dotted with groves of the nutmeg and clove trees that made them famous, the islands now are dangerous to visit, due to a violent religious conflict that has lasted for more than two years; 500 years ago, getting to these perfumed islands was even more challenging. But strangers did come, looking for spices that once grew exclusively in the Indonesian archipelago.

The adventurous had to rely on crude maps such as one in the Portuguese atlas from 1565, an ancient parchment so delicate it must be handled with gloved fingers in a museum today. Red lettering and gilt flourishes dot the page.

It looks like a treasure map. It was.

The spice trade was a lucrative and exotic adventure for early travelers.

Now, our experience with spice is limited to jars that often are as dusty as their contents, and the journey leads only to the supermarket.

Yet at a time when serious cooks pay attention to the growing region of their tomatoes, the age of their balsamic vinegar and the exercise space given a chicken, understanding the origin of spices should be of interest as well.

Like produce, spices are fragile. Whether as nuts, bark, pods or plants, all of them start out fresh, bursting with volatile oils.

To better understand their nature, it helps to trace select spices to the the rough cinnamon bark on trees in Vietnam. All play an integral role in the daily American diet. The United States is the worlds largest importer of culinary spices. Most imported spices go to food processors who distribute the seasoning in ways the consumer doesnt always consider: breakfast sausage, salad dressings, even some beers ...

Demand for high-quality spices has fueled an upscale business. At specialty markets and through Internet sites, it is possible to pick up Turkish anise, Pakistani cumin, crystallized Australian ginger and velvety wands of Tahitian vanilla.

Today, restaurant-goers seek highly flavored foods. Exposure to international cuisine through travel or simply visiting ethnic restaurants is a main reason for a globalization in tastes.

But when it comes to appreciating spices, no modern consumption figures can match the obsession that once drove some of the most famous explorers in history to launch dangerous expeditions into unknown waters.

The seasonings we take for granted now were worth fighting battles over.

Ancient Romans demanded pepper as tribute. In the Middle Ages spices were considered currency.

Spices traveled overland across Asia and the Middle East and in ships that skirted the coastlines of Malaysia, India and Saudi Arabia. It was worth the journey, vulnerable to pirate attack and wild seas, at a time when real power lay in powder - the kind of powder ground from nutmeg, cloves and pepper.

Changing hands several times, spices were at a premium by the time they reached Europe. A pound of mace had the same value as three sheep. Pepper, the most valuable spice, was counted out peppercorn by peppercorn, with a value that at times equaled gold.

Nutmeg was considered a cure-all; clove oil relieved pain. Other spices were burned as fumigants, stirred into perfume and swallowed as aphrodisiacs.

Although the romance of the spice trade has been lost, spices are still part of our lives.

Breathe in the rich aroma of cinnamon from a frosted sweet roll. Grate a little nutmeg over eggnog. Savor curry warmed with ginger and coriander.

Youll realize, why people would travel so far for flavor.

Spicy USA

Our most popular spices, based on amounts consumed in 2000:

Mustard seed

Red pepper

Black pepper

Paprika

Cinnamon

Fresh Tips

When was it, exactly, you bought that jar of allspice or cloves? Most cooks use spices in such small amounts that the purchase lasts for years. And thats a bad idea. Spices come from plants, so they get their flavor from oils in the seeds or bark. These oils start to lose potency when picked and deteriorate further with time and exposure.

Purchase spices in small quantities that can be used quickly.

Always store spices in cool, dark places, away from the stove, the window or other light sources.

Keep containers tightly sealed to avoid exposure to air and humidity.

Purchase whole spices when possible and grind them only as you need them.

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