Instructions: Like the babe sitting at the end of the bar, artichokes can send mixed signals. Their rounded, sensuous curves beckon, while all those sharp little thorns stop you cold.

Its easy to see why many shoppers lose their nerve and turn instead to carrots or zucchini, which are so familiar and, lets face it, so dull.

With globe artichokes at their peak right now, its the perfect time to pluck up your courage and go for the hot babe.

During Roman times, artichokes were among the most expensive items in the produce markets. In 1533, noted gourmand Catherine de Medici took the artichoke from Italy to France when she married the heir to the throne.

It eventually made its way to America with European immigrants and is now firmly rooted in California, which grows nearly all of the U.S. crop.

artichokes. Beginning in August, months after Californias globe variety has peaked, local farmers markets and roadside stands start selling thornless varieties such as the Emerald and Imperial Star, or purple varieties such as the Violetta, which turns green when cooked.

Baby artichokes are also cropping up - even in supermarkets. These dont come from "little" artichoke plants, but from the same plant as the larger ones, only from farther down the stalk among the shady fronds instead of the sunny top.

These trendy little morsels are fully mature when picked but do not have the fuzz or fibrous leaves in the center. By trimming off the tough outer green leaves, you have a completely edible artichoke.

As with crab and asparagus, its hard to beat a fresh choke served with melted butter. Or even cool mayo or a tangy vinaigrette. But there are so many more ways to enjoy them - as entrees, side dishes, salads and appetizers. And there are just as many ways to prepare them - by boiling, steaming, microwaving, grilling or sauteing.

Need some inspiration? At Higgins, diners are enjoying a bruschetta of artichokes and chevre with arugula and a lemon-walnut vinaigrette.

At Clarkes in Lake Oswego, an asparagus and artichoke salad includes roasted beets, bell peppers and Serrano ham in a grainy mustard dressing.

At Wildwood, thornless chokes are poached in a vinaigrette, then grilled and dressed simply with zinfandel vinegar, lemon olive oil and salt, and served with an herb salad.

Lets pause for a reality check: I dont have a sous chef and neither, Im guessing, do you. Thats OK, because with a little data and some simple recipes, you can enjoy artichokes at home.

The keys are age and freshness. If you dont start with a good artichoke, no amount of boiling or melted butter will make it tender and delicious.

Experts say to look for heavy, compact and dense artichokes with a nice, even green color. Spring globes are rounded, while the fall crop is usually more pine-cone shaped.

Avoid artichokes with lots of scars or black spots, as well as those bulging outward at the base, a sign they are getting old and growing fibrous.

Inspect the stem to see if its shriveled. Thats another bad sign. Bend the stem: It should be neither too rigid nor too pliable. And, remember, the larger the stem, the larger the heart. Many recipes say to cut off the stem, but its just an extension of the heart and is every bit as tender and tasty.

When youre rooting around in the artichoke bin at the store, you may hear squeaks as you move the chokes around. This is a good sign, although its not necessary. It just means the chokes have been kept cool, which ensures better quality.

Selecting a wine to go with artichokes can be tricky, since the vegetable makes wine taste sweeter. Stick with wines that have plenty of acidity, such as a sauvignon blanc or pinot blanc or, if you prefer red, an Italian barbera or dolcetto.

The accompanying photos describe how easy it is to prepare your fresh artichokes.

Now, put on a smile and let this little babe win your heart.

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